森 健二
The chef
Eleven years in Ginza. Ten seats in Chicago.
From a six-seat counter to the West Loop.
Kenji Mori grew up above his father’s fish shop in Shizuoka. At nineteen he started washing rice at a six-seat counter in Ginza, and it was two years before he was allowed to touch fish.
He stayed eleven years, the last four as head chef. In 2019 he moved to Chicago to cook for a friend, fell in love with the city’s winters and its Great Lakes fish, and decided to stay.
Shari opened in 2022 with one rule from his teacher: the rice comes first. It is seasoned with two aged red vinegars and served at body temperature, exactly as he learned it.
年表
Timeline
2004
Starts as an apprentice at a six-seat counter in Ginza, Tokyo.
2015
Becomes head chef and takes over the morning trips to the fish market.
2019
Moves to Chicago and starts buying from Great Lakes and East Coast fishermen.
2022
Opens Shari Omakase on Fulton Market with ten seats and two seatings.
Three things he won’t compromise on.
The knife
A single yanagiba, sharpened by hand every afternoon before service.
The rice
Koshihikari from Niigata, washed in cold water and cooked in small batches.
The finish
Each piece is brushed and garnished at the counter, seconds before you eat it.